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I should have known better than to say that strawberries were in full harvest mode, despite having gotten some from my CSA and despite the forecast from the Lawrence Farmers Market coordinator. A late, severe and days-long cold spell this spring ruined the strawberry crop for lots of growers, so I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised when I dragged myself down to the market at 7:30 yesterday morning (Saturday!) and found none. I’m NOT a morning person.

One vendor, though, had a good pile of rhubarb, so I bought a bunch.

Last night, after deciding I was too lazy to make pie crust, I found the following recipe for Rhubarb Fool in the The Four-Season Cookbook by Barbara Fried. (The book is out of print, but copies occasionally are available. My friend Angela gave me a copy; it’s one of her all-time favorites.) It’s essentially stewed, pureed rhubarb mixed with a little bit of custard and chilled. It wasn’t pretty (sorry, no pic), being a sort of pinkish-beige, almost, and I had a few skeptical diners who initially demurred. But it tasted great, and I got in trouble for not saving some for my daughter, who had to come late.

Here it is, slightly rewritten (I can’t help myself), should you want to try it. One sister suggested renaming it Rhubarb Mousse for “marketing” purposes, but if you’re good at making food look pretty, you can call it fool (even if it doesn’t strictly fit the definition):

Rhubarb Fool

• 2 pounds rhubarb
• 3/4 cup sugar, divided
• 2 teaspoons flour
• 1//4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
• Whipped cream (optional)

Wash rhubarb well, and cut (stalks only) into inch-long pieces. Place in saucepan with enough water to cover; bring quickly to the boil and simmer 4 minutes. Drain and puree. (I used a food processor.)

Return puree to pan with 1/2 cup of the sugar. Cook over low heat, stirring, until rhubarb has thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

In a small bowl, blend remaining 1/4 cup sugar, flour and salt. In small, heavy saucepan, scald milk over medium heat, then whisk in sugar mixture. Blend thoroughly, and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low.

Add 2-3 tablespoons of the milk mixture to the eggs, and mix well. Then, while stirring constantly, add eggs to the milk. Continue stirring while cooking over low heat until custard thickens. Cool. Stir in vanilla.

Add custard to rhubarb mixture. Mix well, and chill. Serve cold, with whipped cream, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

Notes: Although I understand rhubarb has considerable pectin, I didn’t notice much change in consistency when I cooked the puree, but took it off the heat after 5 minutes anyway. If you make it and yours looks ugly, too, I recommend topping with whipped cream, which makes anything look more appetizing.

Addendum: The main dish was London Broil with Ravigote Sauce, on page 438 of The Gourmet Cookbook, and it was a hit, despite the delay due to a failed first attempt at charcoal lighting. I mention it mainly for my sisters, because they, like me, received the cookbook from my dad and his significant other a year and a half ago, and they liked the results.